Last month, I had an opportunity to interview someone special. It’s supposed to be a secret because it has something to do with my work, but I feel like I can’t keep it anymore. So… I interviewed Louis Vuitton’s master perfumer, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud! Yay! I was super nervous but also excited. It was an honour for me to talk with him about perfumery and the fragrances he has crafted for the French luxury house. Specifically, I asked him about his latest creations, Pur Ambre and Pur Santal. I went to Louis and tried both, and I have to say they were amazing (they still are, though). I love both, but Pur Ambre has left an indelible impression, and I think I can’t get enough of it. I sprayed it on a test strip and brought it home. The strip still projected the scent for the next three weeks.
So, let’s talk about Pur Ambre a little bit. The fragrance is part of the Pure Perfumes line. The story began with Pur Oud, which was released earlier in 2021. Pur Ambre and Pur Santal were unveiled this year, and together, the three form the aforementioned fragrance collection. I tested all of them, but as I said before, Pur Ambre is my best favourite. I told Jacques that if the perfume was a human, it would be a loving mother because the scent is warm and enveloping, but, at the same time, strong and intense due to its outstanding performance, which he agreed with. I do love the scent, but I am also fascinated by its main ingredient—ambergris.
First things first, ambergris is not amber. They are two different things. Amber is a tree resin that has been fossilised. On the other hand, ambergris is a substance secreted by sperm whales. It is a solidified whale’s poo, to put it simply, even though it’s not really a faeces (the substance is formed inside the whale’s intestines and is later secreted through the anus). The name stems from the Arabic word “anbar”, which becomes “amber” in English or “ambre” in French. Specifically, “ambergris” means “grey amber” in French (gris means “grey” in French, like Gris Dior, meaning “Grey Dior”). The substance itself is grey, beige-coloured. Its scent is commonly described as warm, sweet, woody, and musky. Because of that, the substance is hailed “the floating gold”. Try searching “ambergris value” on Google, and you’ll get a big list of news articles about people catching a lucky break when they find a big chunk of ambergris. An article in the New York Post covers the story of a lucky Thai fisherman who found a 6.8-kilogram piece of ambergris worth over $230,000 in 2021. Another similar story is featured in Banbury Guardian; this time, it’s about a father and a son who found a 2-kilogram piece of ambergris on Leven Beach. However, it’s worth knowing that, due to its nature, freshly secreted ambergris smells faecal, has a darker colour, and looks unsightly. Yeah, basically, it looks like a poo. So, how does ambergris get its pleasant scent profile and become something so valuable?
Jacques said that ambergris, after secreted, will float freely in the ocean. As it ages, it is exposed to the elements. Saltwater, minerals, raindrops, wind, sunshine, well, you name it. Ambergris faces the harshest storm, the hottest day, and the coldest winter on its journey. However, it never knows its final destination; it will go wherever the waves take it. Some ambergris pieces have to “endure” this condition for years before getting discovered or coming ashore, but after a long period of formation through exposure to the elements, ambergris transforms into a precious, highly sought-after material blessed with a musky, woody scent.
I did further research on ambergris and read an article from Ini Rumah Pintar. It is said that the best ambergris is assumed to have been in the ocean for 20 to 30 years. High-quality ambergris is also light grey to white on the outside due to the oxidation by salt water, and its inside has a lighter shade. In terms of texture, the best ambergris is hard, just like a stone. On the other hand, low-quality ambergris is soft, just like, well, a poo. In addition, a Wikipedia article on ambergris includes a statement by the author of Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris, Christopher Kemp, who says that ambergris is only produced by sperm whales, and it is estimated that only one per cent of the population produces it, making ambergris very rare.
The story of how ambergris is formed has left me amazed and a bit emotional. I can’t help but relate it to how someone can develop and grow into their best after a series of challenges. As we live, we are presented with an array of obstacles to tackle. Life is not always a happy summer vacation. Sometimes, it is a long period of stormy days, and we don’t know when the sun will return. We might not know our destination and feel confused. At some point, we are left with no other option than facing all things unpleasant and experiencing pain, but these serve as opportunities for us to learn and grow. And as we get older, we become wiser, stronger, and more precious.
I think we all should learn from ambergris. Once an unwanted thing, it transforms into something beautiful and valuable after a long period of harsh formation. We are probably at the point where we feel like our lives are crumbling, or problems keep coming, and we don’t know when the suffering will come to an end. However, if we let ourselves learn and grow from the situation, I believe we can transform into our better selves (or, better, our best selves). And once we are at that point, we can look back and tell ourselves that we have tried our best and have done a great job, and see how precious we truly are… and we are worth more than a two hundred-grand ambergris chunk.